Before tasting it for the first time in Germany, I tried making it in Texas. According to one of the online recipes, the crust was supposed to be thin but made with yeast, so there was a resemblance with thin-crust pizza. My thinly spread crème fraîche completely melted during the cooking, and my choice of bacon and the amount of onions resulted in something that didn’t impress me. I’ve never made it again.
Two weeks ago, in Germany, I tried my friend Anna’s version, and it was one of those “Oh Yeah! That’s what it is!” moments. We made it at home with pre-made and pre-rolled dough. Anna was giving me instructions, I was following them to the letter. “Sauté leeks until they start caramelizing, and don’t be shy with butter!” “Spread more Schmand, thicker!” “Less speck and leeks. Make sure they are not covered by each other.” “Just a little bit of shredded cheese on top….” The highest oven temperature, baking stone, 12-13 minutes. It was perfect! The dough was slightly layered and soft enough to chew it with pleasure. It was also crispy on the edges and firm enough not to fold when holding a slice. All the flavors and textures were balanced and pronounced. The result had nothing to do with any pizza. It had its flammkuchenish excitement!
