This recipe is a classic French/European recipe for chicken liver pate, except for the first step with soaking livers in a starchy ice bath. Most recipes include soaking livers in milk. “It is often said that milk improves the taste, purges blood, lightens the color, or affects some other property of the meat.” (“Modernist Cuisine” Nathan Myhrvold, p. 147) Soaking lean proteins in cold water (or flavored liquids) mixed with starch is “velveting”, a technique used to prevent delicate foods from overcooking.
Overcooking livers is the most common mistake. It makes their texture dry and sandy. Soaking livers in cold starchy water makes it more difficult to overcook them and is a big help for beginners.
The best-tasting chicken livers are pale. We rarely have a chance to choose them — they are sold in closed white containers. But if you do have a choice, pick those that are pale.
Is adding alcohol critical for the chicken liver pate? No, it’s optional. But it does add some goodness to it if the alcohol — brandy, cognac, whiskey, scotch, calvados, bourbon, port, sherry, etc. — is high quality.
Leeks are my favorite choice for onions, but they can be substituted with any other kind of your choice. Sauté them until completely soft and sweet. In the case of regular onions, I’d suggest caramelizing them for extra sweetness.
The amount of butter is variable and can be adjusted to taste. More butter makes the texture firm (when cold) and the taste more delicate (or diluted). Always go for the best butter you can afford.
