Chicago-Style Italian Sausage

Chicago-style Italian sausage is a true regional specialty, but thankfully it’s simple to make at home. This version, meant for topping a Chicago thin-crust pizza, uses whole fennel seeds toasted in a skillet, then roughly cracked with a mortar and pestle — a spice grinder, food processor, blender or the bottom of a heavy pan will work. It gets mixed into fatty ground pork seasoned with salt, black pepper, fresh and granulated garlic, a bit of dried herbs, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. The key is to knead the mixture (whether by hand or in a stand mixture fitted with a paddle) until the proteins begin to unravel and cross-link, giving it a tacky texture that turns springy and juicy as the sausage cooks, releasing its flavorful fat to mingle with the sauce and cheese as the pizza bakes.