Pickled Pepper Potato Salad

Rich meat needs acid, which Au Passage chef Edward Delling-Williams delivers here in the form of potato salad. The potatoes have the appeal of a warm, vinegar-and-bacon-fat dressing, but are actually made with brown butter and the vinegar from homemade chile pepper pickles.

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Step 1

In a small nonreactive saucepan, combine the vinegar, water, and 1/2 tablespoon of salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until the salt dissolves. Layer the jalapeños in a heatproof 2-cup jar. Pour the pickling liquid into the jar and let stand at room temperature, pushing the peppers into the brine occasionally, for 2 hours.

Step 2

In the same saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat, then cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the milk solids brown, 3-4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

Step 3

Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil with the kombu, onion, garlic, and bay leaves. Using a spider or slotted spoon, remove the kombu from the boiling water. Add the potatoes and cook over medium-high heat until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and cut the potatoes in half.

Step 4

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons of the pickling liquid with the herbs, shallots, capers, and mustard. Whisk in the brown butter until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Add the warm potatoes and pickled peppers and gently toss to coat.