Ratatouille de Provence with Thai Basil Oil

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Step 1

Lay 1 medium globe eggplant, sliced into 1/4 inch rounds on a rack set over a sheet pan and sprinkle both sides with half of 1.3 teaspoons kosher salt, for the vegetables. Let it sit 30 minutes so the slices release their water, then blot dry with paper towels. This is the difference between eggplant that roasts and eggplant that steams.

Step 2

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil, for the base in a wide skillet or braiser over medium heat. Add 1 large yellow onion, finely diced and 2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1/2 inch dice with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring now and then, until fully soft and translucent. Keep the heat gentle: you want no browning at all, just sweetness.

Step 3

Stir in 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, 2 tablespoons tomato paste, 1 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, and 0.3 teaspoons red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring constantly, until the tomato paste darkens a shade and smells toasty rather than raw.

Step 4

Add 800 grams canned whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand along with 1.5 teaspoons kosher salt, for the base and 1 teaspoons sugar. Bring to a lively bubble, then drop to a low simmer and cook uncovered, stirring every 35 minutes or so, until the mixture is thick and jammy with no watery pooling. Finish off the heat with 1 tablespoons red wine vinegar and 0.5 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, then taste for salt.

Step 5

Heat the oven to 425 F. Toss the blotted eggplant, 2 medium zucchini, sliced into 1/4 inch rounds, and 2 medium yellow squash, sliced into 1/4 inch rounds with 4 tablespoons olive oil, for roasting and the rest of 1.3 teaspoons kosher salt, for the vegetables, then spread in a single layer across two sheet pans. Roast until the edges are browned and the slices are tender but still holding their shape, flipping once at the halfway point.

Step 6

Blend 30 grams flat-leaf parsley leaves, packed, 15 grams Thai basil leaves, packed, 120 milliliters extra virgin olive oil, for the herb oil, and 0.3 teaspoons kosher salt, for the herb oil on high until vivid green and mostly smooth, about a minute. Pour through a fine mesh strainer into a small bowl or squeeze bottle, pressing gently on the solids. Do not force it; a light press keeps the oil clear.

Step 7

Drop the oven to 375 F. Spread the piperade in an even layer in a baking dish, then shingle the roasted eggplant, zucchini, and yellow squash over the top in overlapping rows, alternating colors. Bake uncovered until everything is bubbling at the edges and the flavors have married.

Step 8

While the dish bakes, brush 1 baguette, cut on a sharp bias into 6 long slices lightly with olive oil and toast on a grill pan or under the broiler until striped and crisp on the outside, still chewy in the center. Flip once.

Step 9

Let the ratatouille rest so it sets up and stops running on the plate. Serve a generous spoonful per plate, keeping the shingled slices on top, then drizzle the herb oil around the edge in a comma shape. Finish with 12 Thai basil leaves, for garnish and 0.5 teaspoons flaky sea salt, and lean a slice of grilled baguette against the mound.