Lamb or Beef Stew

Chopping garlic produces harsh flavors. We prefer to use whole cloves, which lend a subtler flavor. We used the simmering stew to cook a whole head, turning it tender, silky and mellow. We tried dried and canned chickpeas but didn’t taste a big difference, so we opted for the ease of canned. We liked the flavor and texture of lamb shoulder, but boneless beef chuck worked, too (but needs an extra cup of water and must cook longer, 90 minutes total, before the carrots are added). A dollop of yogurt on top is great as is, but we also liked it with a bit of chopped cilantro, lemon juice and a pinch of cayenne added. Lamb shoulder can vary in fattiness; be sure to trim it well to avoid greasy broth. Don’t use old spices. The backbone of the dish is the bold, vibrant spice mixture. Make sure yours are no more than a year old. Flat-leaf parsley can be substituted for the cilantro.

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Step 1

■ In a bowl, stir together the paprika, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, 2 teaspoons of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Reserve half of the spice mixture, then toss the lamb with the remaining spice mixture until well coated. Set aside. Cut off and dis- card the top third of the garlic head, leaving the cloves intact.

Step 2

In a Dutch oven over medi- um-high heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until softened and just beginning to brown around the edges, 5 to 8 minutes.

Step 3

Add the tomato paste and the reserved spice mixture, then cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the water and bring to a boil over high heat, then add the lamb and garlic head, cut side down. Cover, leaving the lid slightly ajar, and reduce the heat to low.

Step 4

Simmer for 1 hour, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a gen- tle bubble. Add the carrots and continue to simmer, partially covered, for another 30 minutes.

Step 5

Using tongs, remove the garlic head and squeeze over the stew to release the cloves. Stir in the chick- peas and spinach and cook until the spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes.

Step 6

Stir in the cilantro and lemon juice, then season the stew with salt and pepper. Serve topped with yogurt and sprinkled with cilantro.