Penna Alla Vodka with chicken

This is about as easy as marinara variations get. There are various stories for where the sauce got its origin-some say it was at New York restaurant Orsini in the 1970s, others claim it was a marketing trick devised by a vodka company in the 1980s. Either way, there are some very good culinary reasons why adding vodka to a sauce can make it more fragrant. As we learned while searching for the ultimate chili (see page 257), alcohol is more volatile than water, which means that at a given temperature, it'll produce more vapor, helping aromatic compounds from the food leap off the plate and into your nose, where you can smell them. A classic pink sauce, this also incorporates cream, its richness rounding out the acidity of the tomatoes. Adding slivered chicken to the mix turns the dish into a hearty meal.

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Step 1

1. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until the butter has melted and the foaming subsides. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, and pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, with their juice, and basil, if using. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and reduced to 4 cups, about 30 minutes.

Step 2

2. Transfer the sauce to the jar of a blender, discarding the basil, and add the cream and vodka. Starting on the lowest speed and gradually increasing to high, blend until completely smooth, about 30 seconds. Return to the saucepan and bring to a simmer over high heat, then reduce to a bare simmer and allow to reduce further while the pasta cooks.

Step 3

3. Place the pasta in a large pot and cover with hot water. Add a large pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to keep the pasta from sticking. Continue to cook until the pasta is fully softened but retains a slight bite in the center. Meanwhile about 2 minutes before the pasta is done, add the chicken to the sauce and stir to combine.

Step 4

4. Drain the pasta, reserving 1½ cups of the cooking liquid, and return to the pot. Add the sauce, stir to combine, and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has achieved the desired consistency, about 1 minute, adding some of the reserved pasta water as necessary.

Step 5

Serve immediately, topped with the parsley and grated cheese.