Chicken stock and Asian stock

I make two different kinds of stock, the old-fashioned type I grew up with and a gently spiced pot of Eastern good-ness. For both you can use ei-ther cooked bones or raw. For regular stock, put the bones in a large pot with two celery sticks, eight black pepper-corns, a couple of bay leaves, a peeled and halved onion, a large carrot and a handful of parsley stalks. Even if you're using a cooked carcass, throw in a few raw chicken wings too, they really help. You should never add salt, as reduced stock is salty. And don't add tomatoes, as the seeds can impart bitterness. Cover with a couple of litres of water, slowly bring to the boil, skim and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for two hours, skimming frequently, then strain. Never allow the stock to boil as it muddies the flavour and makes it cloudy. You want a clear golden broth. For an Eastern stock - to use in broths and South East Asian braises or sautés - I put onion, peeled garlic and a gen-erous chunk of chopped root ginger into the pot, then other aromatics, depending on what the stock will be used for. It could be lemon grass and lime leaves with coriander, a bit of star anise, chilli or strips of lime zest. I cook this stock in exactly the same way as the more familiar type. With stock in your fridge or freezer, you have a basic block on which to build a meal. You have a store of condensed flavour, ready to be tapped. I've said it's an old-fashioned smell but I don't want it to become the smell of the past. I would like the scent of stock cooking to be a modern smell, too. It's good to get right down to the bones.

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Step 1

I make two different kinds of stock, the old-fashioned type I grew up with and a gently spiced pot of Eastern good-ness. For both you can use ei-ther cooked bones or raw. For regular stock, put the bones in a large pot with two celery sticks, eight black pepper-corns, a couple of bay leaves, a peeled and halved onion, a large carrot and a handful of parsley stalks. Even if you're using a cooked carcass, throw in a few raw chicken wings too, they really help.

Step 2

You should never add salt, as reduced stock is salty. And don't add tomatoes, as the seeds can impart bitterness. Cover with a couple of litres of water, slowly bring to the boil, skim and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for two hours, skimming frequently, then strain. Never allow the stock to boil as it muddies the flavour and makes it cloudy. You want a clear golden broth.

Step 3

For an Eastern stock - to use in broths and South East Asian braises or sautés - I put onion, peeled garlic and a gen-erous chunk of chopped root ginger into the pot, then other aromatics, depending on what the stock will be used for. It could be lemon grass and lime

Step 4

leaves with coriander, a bit of star anise, chilli or strips of lime zest. I cook this stock in exactly the same way as the more familiar type.

Step 5

With stock in your fridge or freezer, you have a basic block on which to build a meal. You have a store of condensed flavour, ready to be tapped.

Step 6

I've said it's an old-fashioned smell but I don't want it to become the smell of the past. I would like the scent of stock cooking to be a modern smell, too. It's good to get right down to the bones.