Agrodolce

Cooking pearl onions, shallots, and scallions in agrodolce, Italy’s iconic sweet-tart sauce, makes a bold, versatile side dish that is ideal for pairing with rich roasts and cuts of meat. We started off by gently braising the pearl onions and shallots in water to tenderize them, and then we built the agrodolce right in the pan with white wine vinegar, caramelly brown sugar, handfuls of plump raisins, and a pinch of black pepper for subtle warmth. We simmered the agrodolce until it thickened, turned glossy, and coated the alliums; we then finished the dish with the scallion greens and a few tablespoons of butter for even more sheen and body.

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Step 1

Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Add 1 pound pearl onions, root ends trimmed, to boiling water and cook for 30 seconds. Drain onions, then transfer to prepared ice bath; drain again. Squeeze tips of onions to pop them out of outer skin.

Step 2

Combine onions, 8 ounces small shallots, peeled; 1¼ cups water; and ½ teaspoon table salt in 12-inch skillet and bring to boil over high heat. Cover; reduce heat to medium; and cook, stirring occasionally, until paring knife meets little to no resistance when slipped into center of alliums and most liquid has evaporated, 18 to 20 minutes.

Step 3

Uncover and add ½ cup white wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, 2 tablespoons raisins, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Increase heat to high and continue to cook until liquid has thickened to consistency of heavy cream, 4 to 6 minutes.

Step 4

Off heat, add 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces, and greens of 4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces, and shake and swirl pan until butter is melted, about 1 minute. Transfer to small serving dish and serve.To Use Frozen Pearl Onions: Skip step 1. In step 2, decrease water to 1 cup and add ⅛ teaspoon baking soda along with salt and bring to boil over high heat. Add 3 cups frozen pearl onions along with shallots and return to boil. Boil for 30 seconds. Stir in 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar, cover, and cook for 12 to 15 minutes. In step 3, add remaining 7 tablespoons vinegar along with sugar, raisins, and pepper

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