shiitake pho

There’s a whole world of mushrooms out there but the diamond in the rough, in my eyes, is the shiitake. Originally from China, and now grown in the UK, it is sold both fresh and dried, and, when cooked, unleashes an almighty meaty, smoky richness, adding a welcome chewy texture to boot. In this Hanoi-style pho, the mushroom broth provides a perfect pool for the noodles and spices – cinnamon, star anise and cloves – to swim in. You could top it with a galaxy of good things, from crispy fried onions to all manner of herbs (fresh mint and coriander, say), but here I’ve gone for leeks. This recipe rewards the cook who chops everything in advance.

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

In a large pot (3 litres or bigger), heat the oil on a medium flame, then fry the shallots for 5 minutes. Stir in the ginger, star anise, cloves and cinnamon stick, and fry for 5 minutes more, until the mix starts to blacken and turn sticky. Add the finely sliced leek, chillies and mushrooms, and stir-fry for 8 to 10 minutes, until softened, then add the soy sauce, half the spring onions and the stock. Bring to the boil, turn the heat down to a whisper and leave to simmer. Check for seasoning: it may well need salt.

Step 2

Meanwhile, fry the shredded leek. Pour enough oil into a frying pan to come 1cm up the sides, then heat on a medium flame until very hot. Fry the leek in batches, until crispy and golden, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain while you fry the rest. Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions and drain.

Step 3

To serve, distribute the noodles between four bowls, ladle the broth on top, making sure everyone gets a good helping of the vegetables, then scatter with coriander, the crispy leeks, remaining spring onions and a squeeze of lime.