OLIVE MILL PASTA

I've served this pasta at my restaurant in Monte Carlo. But it is really a modest dish, one that I would make at home and one that the housewives in Liguria serve as the mainstay of a meal. These women are the keepers of the best Italian cooking. A preparation like this also illustrates the deep connection to the actual process and pleasure of preparing food, something that is essential to me. You're not just standing there waiting for a big pot of water to boil, and then waiting for the macaroni to cook, and then applying a sauce. You are participating every step of the way, stirring, seasoning, reducing the liquid, enjoying the warmth and aromas around you, trusting your palate and then sharing what you have prepared with others. It's what I adore about cooking.

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

1. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a 10-inch sauté pan. Add butter. When it melts, add onions and potatoes. Cook, stirring gently, over medium heat until they begin to turn golden.

Step 2

2. In a small saucepan, bring stock to a slow simmer.

Step 3

3. Add pasta to sauté pan, and stir gently. Lightly season with salt and pepper, and add tomatoes, garlic and basil or arugula stems. Add 1 1/2 cups stock. Cook, stirring gently, until nearly all stock has evaporated. Add scallions and another cup of stock, and cook, stirring, adding additional stock from time to time, so there is always some liquid in the pan, until pasta is al dente, about 18 minutes. Remove garlic and herb stems.

Step 4

4. Fold in cheese and all but 1 tablespoon remaining oil. Add slivered herbs. Season with additional salt and pepper if needed. Transfer to warm soup plates, taking care that the ingredients are well distributed. Drizzle remaining oil over each and serve.

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