Kale Custards with Cannellini Cream

TORTINI DI CAVOLO NERO CON SALSINA DI F AG IOLI About twenty-f i ve years ago, when I started teaching cooking in T oscano at Capezzana in Carmignano and Da Delf i na in Artimino, no one knew what cavolo nero (also called black, T uscan, or dinosaur kale) was. Nowadays, it is ubiquitous and available all year long, but half a century ago, you never ate cavolo nero until after the fi rst frost. These tortini, based on those made by Carlo at Da Delf i na with wild nettles, are wonderful to serve as an appetizer. The beauty of this dish is the combination of bitter tortino with the sweet salsina made with tomatoes and cannellini bean purée. Serve alongside toasted Italian bread to sop up all the fl avors.

Good

% Daily Values based on a 2,000 calorie diet

Step 1

• Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Step 2

• To make the custards: In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons (16 g) of the Parmesan with the bread crumbs. Thoroughly butter four 4-ounce ramekins, then coat each with the cheese– bread crumb mixture.

Step 3

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the kale, cover the pot with a lid, reduce the heat slightly, and boil until the kale is tender and bright green, 4 to 5 minutes.

Step 4

Drain through a colander and set aside to cool slightly.

Step 5

Once the kale is cool enough to handle, squeeze out any excess moisture and coarsely chop.

Step 6

• In a medium bowl, combine the chopped kale, eggs, and the remaining 2 tablespoons (16 g) cheese. Divide the mixture among the prepared ramekins and place in a large baking dish. Place the dish in the oven and carefully add enough boiling water to come two-thirds up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custards are set, but jiggle slightly when shaken, about 20 minutes. Carefully remove the ramekins from the hot water and set aside to cool.

Step 7

• Meanwhile, to make the sauce: In a medium saucepan, heat the tomato sauce and the beans with some of their cooking liquid over a medium fl ame. Bring to a soft simmer for just a minute. Place a fi ne mesh sieve over a bowl, add the bean and tomato mixture, and using the back of a tablespoon, press the bean mixture through the colander to purée. Add the olive oil and taste for seasoning.

Step 8

• T urn the custards out into warmed pasta bowls, giving each a gentle shake to release from the molds. T o serve, place some of the bean purée next to each custard. Serve with some crusty toasted Italian bread. T o eat, spread some of the custard on the toast and top with some of the puréed bean sauce.