Thai Chicken Noodle Soup

If you've recently roasted a chicken, and have leftovers waiting for you in the fridge, I must steer you towards this recipe. Even if you don't have much chicken left over, you can still make this: a few shreds will be plenty. (And this recipe is worth bearing in mind even when your starting point is not leftover chicken: if you were to bung in some frozen prawns at the end, making sure you cook them through, this would make for a fabulous storecupboard supper.) This is a very laissez-faire recipe all round, actually: when I cooked it for the photo shoot I forgot to put the vegetables in and it was still heavenly. And I often just go for some leafy greens and a julienned or sliced spring onion along with a handful of beansprouts instead of the mixed vegetables I mention in the ingredients list. Similarly, if you can't get the ravishing cellophane packages of almost equally cellophane vermicelli, don't be put off making this; udon, soba, rice noodles, spaghetti or linguine could be substituted.

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